I’ll be trustworthy: I arrived in Ulaanbaatar with low expectations.
Again once I first began planning my journey to Mongolia, I shortly found that for many travellers, the nation’s polluted capital was extra of an obligation than a vacation spot. It was a spot by which to land, get your bearings, and organise your transport, earlier than promptly heading to the steppe.
Only a few individuals have optimistic issues to say about Ulaanbaatar, and even the statistics are miserable.
That is the coldest capital metropolis on this planet, with winter temperatures often dropping as little as -40°C (-40°F), and lots of locals having no choice however to warmth their houses with coal with a purpose to keep alive. It’s one of the vital polluted cities due to this, with the winter’s thick, poisonous smog leading to quite a few well being points for its residents.
Suppose: sky-high charges of carbon monoxide poisoning, lung most cancers, pneumonia, bronchitis, and bronchial asthma. Pneumonia is the second highest reason for demise for these beneath 5, and youngsters dwelling in Ulaanbaatar have 40% decrease lung operate than those that reside within the countryside. Native ladies will even time their pregnancies so they provide start in the summertime, to keep away from the upper danger of miscarriage.
The housing scarcity in Ulaanbaatar implies that greater than half of town’s inhabitants reside in gers (Mongolian yurts) with out working water, heating, sanitation, or paved roads. At -40 levels, with coal as your solely choice for heating, your choices are to freeze to demise or slowly poison the lungs of your loved ones.
If that wasn’t sufficient, Mongolia nonetheless has the occasional case of bubonic plague. Yep, dozens of individuals nonetheless die of the plague on this nation annually.
For sure, I used to be anticipating my time in Ulaanbaatar to be greater than just a little bleak.
At first, that’s precisely what it was.
My first impressions weren’t nice. The visitors was abysmal, the sidewalks had been falling aside, and there was a way of despair lingering within the air. I’d learn that pickpocketing was rife earlier than arriving, so I held my bag shut as I walked, unsettled and uncomfortable, tripping over rocks. It didn’t really feel welcoming and I didn’t really feel welcomed.
And now, at this level in my introduction, I’ve to someway persuade you guys that three days later, I got here away saying that I liked Ulaanbaatar. Given what I simply wrote, I’m not fairly certain find out how to clarify my abrupt change of coronary heart.
Slowly, although, I started to heat to town. Ulaanbaatar is dwelling to among the finest museums I’ve ever stepped foot in — no exaggeration! — and I discovered extra about Mongolia than I believed I’d with out leaving town.
I had enjoyable buying right here, too, from the chaotic stalls of the native Black Market of Narantuul to selecting up world-class cashmere at manufacturing unit costs. I took an unbelievable tour that launched me to Mongolian tradition, and promptly developed an obsession with Mongolian metal band the Hu. I wandered round vibrant temples and monasteries, met pleasant locals, and started to know that what I’d mistaken for bleakness was extra like resilience.
If you receive my newsletter, you’ll know I like a little bit of resilience.
Sure, the extra time I spent in Ulaanbaatar, the extra I started to heat to it.
It’s polluted, soiled, chaotic, and completely not arrange for pedestrians, however it’s additionally a captivating metropolis, the place can dive into the nation’s historical past, tradition, and up to date transformation, multi function place.
If you happen to’re heading to Mongolia and questioning how a lot time to present its capital — or whether or not it’s price your time in any respect — I like to recommend a minimal of two days, or three days with a day journey out to the close by countryside.
To get essentially the most of your time in Ulaanbaatar, it’s helpful to know just a little bit in regards to the occasions that formed this metropolis.
A Fast Primer on Mongolian Historical past
If you happen to’re something like me, you’ll arrive in Ulaanbaatar barely confused.
Why are there ornate Buddhist temples sitting subsequent to Soviet condominium blocks? Why does every little thing really feel each historic and model new on the similar time?
To make sense of town, it helps to know Mongolia’s 4 massive eras: the Mongol Empire, Buddhism, Communism, and the nation’s pivot to democracy.
First, the empire. Within the thirteenth century, Genghis Khan united the Mongol tribes and went on to construct the biggest contiguous land empire in historical past. The Mongol Empire stretched from Japanese Europe to the Sea of Japan. After his demise, the empire fragmented, and over the centuries Mongolia’s international dominance pale. However Genghis Khan stays a revered nationwide determine, and also you’ll see his face in every single place, from statues to vodka bottles.
Centuries later, Tibetan Buddhism turned central to Mongolian identification. Monasteries flourished, spiritual leaders held political energy, and religious life formed the nation. Most of the temples you’ll go to in Ulaanbaatar at this time replicate that period, though a lot of what you see now are reconstructions.
As a result of within the twentieth century, every little thing modified once more.
In 1921, Mongolia turned the world’s second socialist state after the Soviet Union. Below sturdy Soviet affect, faith was brutally suppressed. 1000’s of monks had been executed, monasteries had been destroyed, and Buddhism was pushed underground. Ornate temples had been changed by concrete condominium blocks and huge public squares. The identify Ulaanbaatar even means crimson hero in Mongolian.
Within the 90s, the Soviet Union started to break down and Mongolia had a peaceable democratic revolution. All of the sudden, individuals may vote freely, begin companies, and reside life exterior of strict authorities management. The transition was rocky, however it reshaped town as soon as once more. Immediately, you’ll see glass skyscrapers, Korean espresso chains, conventional gers on the outskirts, and Soviet structure all blended collectively.
With that context in thoughts, right here’s how I like to recommend spending three days in Ulaanbaatar.
Day One: Monasteries and Museums
I’ll speak extra about the place I stayed whereas I used to be in Ulaanbaatar on the finish of this information (Danista Nomads at a value of $23 an evening for a single room!), however it was situated within the west of town, so I’m beginning the itinerary from that space.
I had fairly the magical introduction to Gandan Monastery, once I by accident timed my go to with the temple’s morning prayers. Each morning, at 9 a.m. on the dot, a monk emerges and bangs on a gong to let his fellow Buddhists know that it’s time to get it on pray. It felt like I used to be particularly removed from dwelling as I stood on the street, gongs reverberating round me; monks starting to assemble.
That is the principle monastery of town, so should you’re solely going to see one in every of them, make it Gandan.
It’s a miracle it’s nonetheless standing at this time. Based within the nineteenth century, it was as soon as crucial construction within the metropolis for Buddhists. As I discussed above, when communism took over Mongolia, hundreds of monks had been executed and many of the monasteries had been destroyed. Gandantegchinlen was one of many only a few to be left standing.
Inside, you’ll discover an enormous, 26-metre-tall golden statue of Migjid Janraisig, a determine representing compassion in Buddhism. The unique statue was dismantled throughout the aforementioned communist takeover, so the one you see at this time was rebuilt within the Nineties after Mongolia’s democratic revolution.
It’s well-worth having a peek inside, although, to see the enormous golden statue, and its an excellent first cease for gaining an perception into trendy Mongolian tradition and faith. You’ll must pay further to take images inside, which brings me to my subsequent level.
A Word on Photograph Permits
Essentially the most infuriating side of journey in Ulaanbaatar is the photograph permits.
Just about each single paid vacationer attraction on this metropolis will cost you further if you wish to take images whilst you’re inside. However not simply that: they’ll cost you three or 4 instances the doorway charge to take images.
As a journey author who wants images of each attraction in a metropolis, this was greater than just a little maddening.
Entrance charges for many of the museums and monasteries are cheap, however it shortly provides up if you wish to take images. Entrance to Choijin Lama Temple is $2.25. A photograph allow? $15.
Once you pay for a allow, you’ll be given a crimson lanyard to put on round your neck. If you happen to don’t have one in every of these, employees will observe you round to examine you don’t take any images!
Have the Dinosaurs All to Your self
A 15 minute stroll from Gandan Monastery brings you to the Pure Historical past Museum of Mongolia, which was one in every of my favorite stops within the metropolis.
Do you know that Mongolia’s Gobi Desert is dwelling to the biggest dinosaur fossil reservoir on this planet?
It’s true: over 80 several types of dinosaur have been found on this nation, and palaeontologists are nonetheless discovering new ones to today.
So what makes the Gobi Desert such a hotspot?
Hundreds of thousands of years in the past, this a part of Mongolia was truly a lush land of rivers, lakes, and forest: the proper setting for dinosaurs to reside and thrive. Once they died, their bones had been buried in sand and dirt, which later turned to rock, preserving the fossils.
The area’s dry local weather at this time means these fossils aren’t destroyed by water or dense vegetation like somewhere else all over the world. As an alternative, wind and erosion have been slowly exposing the stays, making them simple for scientists to seek out.
All that to say: there are such a lot of dinosaurs in Mongolia, so after all there’s a dinosaur museum in Ulaanbaatar.
And the most effective half? After I was there, I used to be the solely individual within the museum. I saved pondering of London’s Pure Historical past Museum and its 20,000-odd guests a day, all crowded across the skeletons of dinosaurs. What a privilege it was to have these equally spectacular variations all to myself.
The star of the Dinosaur Museum present is a large Tarbosaurus skeleton, pictured above. It’s Mongolia’s model of the T. rex: an apex predator with an enormous cranium, sharp tooth, sturdy legs, and teeny-tiny arms.
Past the Tarbosaurus, the museum has a bunch of different fossils to marvel at. You possibly can see smaller predatory dinosaurs, herbivore dinosaurs with duck-bill snouts, and among the earliest bird-like dinosaurs. There are fossilised eggs, claws, and skulls, and — my favorite — a taxidermied Mazaalai.
The Mazaalai, or Gobi Bear, is without doubt one of the world’s rarest bears, dwelling solely within the Gobi Desert, and there are lower than 50 of them left on this planet. And once I inform you that the local weather this bear has to outlive in is harsh: summer season temperatures as excessive as +40°C (104°F), winter temperatures as little as -33°C (-27°F), with an annual rainfall of lower than 100 mm!
When you’ve had your fill of fossils, it’s time to take the ten minute stroll to the Chinggis Khan Museum.
Subsequent Up: The Finest Museum in Mongolia
What an absolute delight it was to wander the rooms of the Chinggis Khan Museum.
This constructing is monumental, and you may spend hours right here, studying all in regards to the life and legacy of Genghis Khan… which raises the query: why is it known as the Chinggis Khan Museum?
Effectively, to start out with, Chinggis’s precise start identify was Temüjin. It was after he created the Mongol Empire that he was given the title Chinggis, which within the Mongolian language roughly interprets to oceanic. (For nomads dwelling removed from the ocean, the ocean represented one thing unimaginably huge, so the title described a ruler whose empire they believed could be equally as massive.)
When Europeans first heard in regards to the Mongols, there was no customary technique to write Mongolian sounds utilizing the Latin alphabet. As an alternative, they needed to depend on how the names had been pronounced by Persian, Chinese language, and Russian sources. In these languages, the Ch sound usually got here throughout to Western ears as a tough G, so Chinggis turned Genghis.
However Chinggis is the right spelling and really how his identify is pronounced.
As you’ll be able to see, I spent numerous time within the Chinggis Khan Museum!
However again to the dimensions of this museum. If you happen to can imagine it, the exhibitions listed below are unfold out over 9 flooring, with over 12,000 artefacts on show — many for the primary time ever. It covers Mongolian historical past from the primary nomads to the Mongol Empire, exhibiting how Chinggis suits into the timeline of the nation, fairly than simply specializing in his life alone.
It’s inconceivable to see all of it in an hour — belief me, I’m usually a speed-sightseer at museums! — so tempo your self, and count on to spend two or three hours there in whole.
Every ground has its personal focus.
You’ll begin with the very beginnings of nomadic states, and see issues like carved deer stones, jewelry and burial reconstructions that offer you a way of how individuals lived and moved on the steppe lengthy earlier than the Mongol Empire.
As you progress up, you hit the Mongol Empire itself: the rise of Temujin, and the fast enlargement beneath Chinggis and later Khans.
By the mid-levels, the main focus adjustments from battles and leaders to how everybody from aristocrats to odd individuals lived beneath the Mongol Empire. You’ll see robes, instruments, home goods, and objects related to Silk Street commerce, and there’s a bit masking why the Mongols had been so profitable, which I discovered significantly fascinating.
On the higher flooring, you’ll study in regards to the empire at its peak and the way life labored behind the scenes. Vibrant spiritual objects, ceremonial gadgets, and different artefacts present how individuals lived, what they believed in, and the way society, from on a regular basis households to the rulers, was organised.
I liked the museum, discovered quite a bit, and was actually impressed by the gadgets on show.
However one criticism: it didn’t actually really feel just like the museum was arrange for English-language guests.
There have been only a few descriptions in English, and as an alternative, the gadgets had accompanying QR codes that you may scan for extra info (there may be Wi-Fi). However who desires to face at a show of 30 completely different jewelry items and scan 30 QR codes one after the other, studying meandering descriptions of every particular person merchandise? It was sort of a ache within the ass, however nonetheless price visiting.
Head Subsequent to Dashchoilin Monastery
Dashchoilin Monastery is just a little out of the best way on this itinerary, so I’ll say now that I take into account this to be an elective cease. It’s not essentially the most mind-blowing attraction in Ulaanbaatar, so should you can’t be bothered to deal with the 20 minute stroll over there from the Chinggis Khan Museum, I gained’t maintain it in opposition to you.
As I discussed in the beginning of this put up, many of the metropolis’s monasteries had been destroyed a long time in the past, however this one was restored within the Nineties and offers peaceable respite from the visitors of Ulaanbaatar. It’s much less busy than Gandan Monastery, however I loved wandering the complicated simply as a lot, marvelling at Buddhist statues and faded-but-still-colourful murals.
Roughly 100 monks nonetheless reside right here, and should you’re fortunate, you would possibly catch a ceremony with chanting and drums. If you happen to’re unfortunate, you would possibly do as I did and enter a temple ger and interrupt a gaggle of monks having a gathering.
There’s Tons to See at Sukhbaatar Sq.
Subsequent up: Sukhbaatar Sq., within the coronary heart of town! It’s a 20 minute stroll again from Dashchoilin Monastery.
You possibly can consider Sukhbaatar Sq. as the principle city sq.: a large open, concrete plaza within the centre of city, surrounded by the entire most vital buildings, like Authorities Palace, the Mongolian Inventory Change, the Opera Home and Central Publish Workplace.
The sq. is called after Damdin Sukhbaatar, a key determine in Mongolia’s 1921 revolution in opposition to Chinese language affect, which paved the best way for many years of Soviet affect, and a big bronze statue of him on horseback stands in the course of the sq..
All through the twentieth century, Sukhbaatar Sq. was the place official parades and state ceremonies occurred beneath the socialist authorities. In 1990, it turned one of many important gathering factors for the peaceable protests that finally helped result in Mongolia’s democratic transition.
Immediately, the area nonetheless hosts public occasions, concert events and celebrations, and is a relaxed place to hang around, take images or simply watch locals and travellers cross by way of on a sunny afternoon. There’s plenty of grand, fascinating structure to take images of, though more often than not, I’ll confess there isn’t tons occurring.
Conveniently, our subsequent cease is situated simply off of Sukhbaatar Sq..
Choose Up Some Cashmere from GOBI Cashmere Galleria Retailer
I’m totally conscious that the subsequent sentence I’m going to sort goes to sound like such a lie.
However.
Each single time I’ve worn the sweater I purchased from GOBI Cashmere, any individual has stopped me and instructed me it appears wonderful.
I do know this appears like a lie.
As somebody who will not be fashion-forward, this can be an indictment of how I sometimes costume, but additionally, I’ve by no means had this response to any merchandise of clothes I’ve worn earlier than.
If I wasn’t satisfied that AI was going to take my job inside the subsequent 12 months, I’d be ordering every little thing GOBI Cashmere sells, in each color obtainable.
If you happen to weren’t conscious, Mongolia is dwelling to the most effective cashmere on this planet. It’s all because of the freezing winters of the steppe, which causes the native goats to provide a wool that’s finer and hotter than yow will discover anyplace else on this planet. Cashmere is already unbelievably tender, heat, and light-weight, however Mongolian cashmere? It’s on a complete different degree.
GOBI Cashmere is without doubt one of the largest producers of cashmere in Mongolia, they usually’re one of many few firms to course of the wool solely inside the nation. (Many different producers will ship the wool to China to be processed to save cash.)
They’ve bought a wide array of clothes up for grabs: tender sweaters, cosy cardigans, lengthy scarves, socks, gloves, and coats. I purchased a few sweaters, two scarves (one a present for my mum), and pair of knee-high socks that I reside in over winter.
You will get a tax refund in your buy should you give employees your passport quantity, and costs had been actually fairly cheap for among the finest cashmere you should purchase ($180 for the sweater that everyone compliments; $90 for a shawl).
Swing Previous Ulaanbaatar Indicators and Statues
With my arms laden with alarmingly conspicuous GOBI Cashmere luggage, I made a decision it finest to move again to my lodging in order to not entice consideration to my splurges.
If you happen to’re staying within the west of town, like I used to be, you’ll be able to cross off a number of vacationer points of interest alongside the best way.
First: Chinggis Khan Backyard, which is situated to the south of Sukhbaatar Sq.. It’s most well-known for its bronze Marco Polo statue (not as random because it sounds: he lived at Kublai Khan’s (Chinggis Khan’s grandson) court docket and wrote Europe’s first detailed accounts of Mongolia).
Simply south of there, you’ll discover the bright-red Ulaanbaatar metropolis signal. It’s what it’s: not exceptionally thrilling, however an excellent alternative for posing for images if you wish to show simply how off-the-beaten observe you’ve ventured to associates.
Just a little additional alongside and also you’ll come throughout the Beatles (marked on Google Maps as Beatles Statue), an sudden statue of the 4 Beatles strolling in entrance of a red-brick wall within the form of an apple. Across the again, there’s a statue of a Mongolian teenager taking part in the guitar.
Unveiled on John Lennons’ birthday in 2008, it was constructed to have fun the Beatles’ cultural affect on Mongolia. The story is definitely fairly fascinating.
Through the Soviet-influenced period of Mongolia, Western pop music was formally banned within the nation. Native youngsters responded in precisely the best way you’d count on: secretly sharing contraband information and cassettes with associates, hiding out collectively to hearken to thrilling bands just like the Beatles.
To them, listening to Western music turned a logo of freedom, which some say laid the groundwork for Mongolia to later grow to be a democracy.
Day Two: Extra Museums, Extra Monasteries
I’ll confess to having low expectations of the Tremendous Arts Zanabazar Museum.
Actually, I went purely as a result of there aren’t a ton of vacationer points of interest in Ulaanbaatar, so I figured I’d as effectively cross it off whereas I used to be on the town.
The museum is called after Zanabazar, a seventeenth century Mongolian religious chief, descendent of Chinggis Khan, sculptor, painter, and thinker, who helped form Tibetan Buddhism in Mongolia. Some discuss with him because the Asian Michelangelo, as he created a kind-of Mongolian renaissance within the seventeenth century.
He was even recognized because the reincarnation of a high-ranking Tibetan Buddhist chief at simply 4 years previous, which, uh, would have made for fairly a dramatic begin to his life.
Contained in the museum, you’ll discover Bronze Age deer stones (4,000-year-old stones that includes carvings of deer and looking scenes, believed to honour the useless and defend them within the afterlife) alongside Buddhist sculptures and work by Zanabazar.
My spotlight had been the colorful tsam masks and outfits, which you’ll be able to see in my photograph above. These elaborate costumes had been utilized in conventional Buddhist ritual dances, supposed to scare off evil spirits and defend communities in a single fell swoop.
One other Museum! However the Nationwide Museum of Mongolia is Value it
It’s no secret that I spent a big period of time patrolling the museums of Ulaanbaatar, and I walked the 5 minutes to the Nationwide Museum of Mongolia with a worry that there was going to be numerous overlap.
Happily, the Nationwide Museum had its personal focus, too.
And it was visiting this museum that helped convey collectively every little thing I’d discovered in regards to the nation to date.
You study in regards to the rise of Tibetan Buddhism, and the way it formed artwork, tradition, and day by day life, after which the dramatic shift beneath Soviet-style communism, when faith and far of that conventional tradition had been suppressed. By the point you attain the sections on the 1990 democratic revolution, all of it clicks and also you’re celebrating Mongolia’s independence.
It takes you far again in time, too, to the prehistoric people who lived in Mongolia, and the way its residents developed their nomadic way of life. They’ve bought a full-on ger in the course of the museum, as you’ll be able to see from my photograph, in addition to examples of the instruments, horse gear, and family objects that helped households survive the tough winters. I nonetheless can’t comprehend having to take care of -40 diploma temperatures yearly.
To my pleasure, there was even a spacesuit on show! It turns on the market was a Mongolian cosmonaut known as Jügderdemidiin Gürragchaa, who was the a hundredth human to journey into area.
Wander the Spectacular Interiors of Choijin Lama Temple Museum
Subsequent up on the record is Choijin Lama, which is a 15-minute stroll south of the Nationwide Museum.
I actually loved wandering across the temple complicated of Choijin Lama, and would most likely identify it my favorite within the metropolis.
It was constructed within the early 1900s for Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama: mainly one of the vital highly effective monks on the time and the brother of Mongolia’s final king (Bogd Khan). Like the opposite monasteries I’ve really helpful Ulaanbaatar, this one additionally survived the Nineteen Thirties destruction of non secular buildings, however on this case as a result of it was as a result of it was was a museum.
What means is that lots of the statues, masks, and objects contained in the complicated are pre-Nineteen Thirties, which is super-rare in Ulaanbaatar.
The halls are stuffed with statues, as you’d count on, together with Buddha, Choijin Lama, and the Bogd Khan’s trainer, whose mummified stays are literally contained in the statue of him. They even have some sculptures by Zanabazar, who we discovered about earlier this morning, on show, and a tiny stupa introduced all the best way from Tibet.
Choijin Lama borders Ulaanbaatar Park, so it’s a straightforward stroll from the museum to our subsequent vacation spot.
Swing By the Gigantic Mongolian Flag
Ulaanbaatar Park is a comparatively new addition to town’s points of interest, opening in 2024 and giving residents a much-needed inexperienced area by which to flee the mud and visitors jams of town.
What drew me to the park, nevertheless, was the large Mongolian flag, 60 metres tall. Unsurprisingly, it’s the tallest flagpole in Mongolia. I actually like flags, and at all times attempt to discover an enormous one every time I journey. On my journey by way of Mongolia and the Stans, this was not a troublesome job.
There’s a complete bunch of various areas within the park to take a look at, too, like a skate park, playground, pond, strolling trails, and an amphitheatre. And should you’re a runner, that is seemingly the one place within the metropolis you’ll discover satisfying for a jog.
As you’ll be able to see from my photograph, the climate was fairly mediocre whereas I used to be there, so I didn’t get to see the park at its best. If you happen to luck out with blue skies, you’ll seemingly spend longer than the ten minutes I spent wandering round.
Store for All the things at Narantuul Market
Individuals will usually describe massive and busy markets as promoting every little thing however the kitchen sink, so I can’t describe the extent of pleasure I felt once I turned a nook at Narantuul and located a stall promoting kitchen sinks.
One in every of my associates from the tour I took truly purchased a full-on, full-size Mongolian ger from the market to place of their backyard again dwelling!
Yep, Narantuul is large. There’s round 10,000 distributors working right here, with 100,000 day by day guests wandering across the stalls. The locals discuss with it because the Black Market, and there are tales of sketchy gadgets being offered right here previously, from weapons and bullets to prescribed drugs, however for essentially the most half, the stuff on the market is much less unlawful, and the market isn’t scary.
I don’t even know find out how to start to explain the sort of gadgets you should purchase from this market. If you happen to can consider it, odds are, it’s on the market right here.
In my images above, previous Soviet medals and tobacco snuff bottles are on the market, however different gadgets that stood out had been horse driving saddles, Mongolian musical devices, deels and gutals (conventional clothes and boots), bows and arrows… and then you definitely’ll flip a nook and discover beds and carpets and motorbikes and extra.
As you will have gathered, that is extra of a marketplace for locals than vacationers, which I believe makes it all of the extra fascinating. Control your belongings in case of pickpockets, however in any other case intention to spend a few hours marvelling on the sheer number of gadgets which might be on the market right here.
Climb As much as the Soviet Zaisan Memorial
I like myself an excellent Soviet mural, so you’ll be able to think about my devastation once I found Zaisan Memorial was closed whereas I used to be on the town — therefore my use of the inventory photograph above.
Zaisan Memorial sits fairly a method out of city — it’s a 90-minute stroll south of Narantuul — so that you’ll need to rent a taxi to take you there (and ask them to attend round to convey you again to town afterwards), or bounce on a metropolis bus.
Put together your self for a strenuous climb, too, as there’s roughly 600 steps to scale with a purpose to get to the highest. If you happen to’re feeling lazy, it’s also possible to enter the Zaisan Hill Advanced shopping center, take the elevator as much as the seventh ground, and cross the bridge that takes you to the half-way level of the staircase, chopping out a stable 300 steps.
The construction was constructed to honour the Soviet troopers and Mongolian-Soviet friendship after World Battle II, and the mural on the inside is stuffed with shiny colors and heroic poses; giving that barely over-the-top socialist vibe. Immediately, most locals see the memorial much less as glorifying the USSR and extra as honouring the Mongolian troopers who fought in WWII, in addition to a wonderful vantage level over Ulaanbaatar.
As a result of sure, even when Soviet structure isn’t your factor, the views from the highest are panoramic. You’ll get 360-degree views over Ulaanbaatar from up right here: the ger districts, the brand new glass skyscrapers, and the a whole bunch of concrete Soviet-era buildings that also dominate of town, with mountains and the steppe stretching into the space.
Store for Souvenirs at Mary & Martha
Again within the metropolis, it’s time to complete off our explorations with just a little little bit of memento buying.
Sure, I extremely recommending swinging by Mary & Martha to select up some souvenirs and presents. As any individual who buys trinkets from each nation I go to — the overwhelming majority of which I’m certain had been made in the identical manufacturing unit in China — this place was such a breath of recent air.
Each merchandise within the retailer is made in Mongolia, ethically-sourced, and created by native artisans who’re paid a good wage. I purchased a felt coaster and it had just a little label on it telling me the identify of the artist and the place within the nation they had been from! I want all memento outlets had been like this one.
There’s a good quantity of merchandise to select from, too.
Art work, jewelry, magnets, postcards, luggage, cashmere scarves, yak slippers and socks, yarn, cushions, purses, plus an alarming quantity of nativity scenes (full with ger and camels!): I’d be stunned should you couldn’t discover one thing you preferred right here. They’ve a complete bunch of actually Mongolian gadgets, too, like knuckle bones (used for fortune telling) and handcrafted knives.
Day Three: An Epic Day Journey into the Countryside
I’m nonetheless raving about the day trip I took into the Mongolian countryside.
Significantly — I believe that is one in every of my favorite excursions I’ve ever taken.
Not solely had been our tour guides distinctive, however all of my fellow members had been a lot enjoyable to hang around with, so it felt like I used to be driving across the countryside with associates. We discovered a ton about Mongolian tradition, what life is like in Ulaanbaatar at this time, and the facets of the nation that its residents love.
The tour was additionally greater than just a little action-packed, whisking us from an extravagant chrome steel statue of Chinggis Khan to the common-or-garden inside of an area household’s ger. We had the chance to strive native dishes and drinks, trip camels, meet looking eagles, and study archery. In Gorkhi-Terelj Nationwide Park, we hiked to the highest of a rock formed like a turtle, then paid our respects on the vibrant Aryabal Meditation Temple, carved into the facet of a mountain.
By the tip of the day, I used to be dusty, drained, and smitten with Mongolia. It’s a protracted and busy tour, however if you wish to see this a part of Mongolia (it’s not on most overland itineraries, because it’s a bit out of the best way) this is without doubt one of the best methods to see it.
Let me inform you about all of it in additional element.
I’d learn that the Chinggis Khan statue made for a ridiculous sight, however even I used to be stunned by simply how over-the-top it was.
One minute you’re driving by way of open steppe with little greater than grass and sky in each course. The subsequent, there’s a 40-metre tall chrome steel Chinggis Khan plonked atop a hill, glimmering within the morning solar.
It’s, for the few individuals who care, the tallest equestrian statue on this planet.
So, why is it right here? It was constructed to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Mongol Empire, going through to the east, in direction of the area the place Chinggis Khan was born, with the statue marking the spot the place he supposedly stumbled upon a golden whip.
To my delight, you’ll be able to go inside and climb to the highest of the horse’s head.
However first, the basement, the place there’s a small museum that goes over Chinggis Khan’s life and legacy. If you happen to’ve already been to the numerous museums I’ve really helpful in Ulaanbaatar, there gained’t be something new to study right here, however there may be, nevertheless, the world’s largest footwear to admire. These conventional Mongolian boots are a whopping 9 metres tall!
We ventured as much as the viewing platform, which is situated on the horse’s mane. From up there, you’ll be able to actually achieve a way of how huge and empty Mongolia is, with little to see however grass and gers.
Again on the bottom, it was time to dive into Mongolian tradition.
This was a very enjoyable a part of the tour, with everybody scattering in numerous instructions to strive no matter caught their eye.
I ran straight to the archery set-up.
Archery has performed an vital half in Mongolian tradition for hundreds of years, used for looking and preventing, and showcased yearly within the vibrant Naadam competition. Nowadays, it’s one in every of Mongolia’s three conventional sports activities, together with wrestling and horse racing. Seems: I’m a pure.
After being handed the surprisingly heavy bow, I positioned the arrow, and tried to regular my shaking arms. I drew, aimed (type of) and fired, and the arrow hit the board! Then ricocheted off. I don’t know if that’s good or not, however it was extra success than I used to be anticipating.
Earlier than I knew what was taking place, I had an unlimited looking eagle perched on my proper hand.
To today, eagles are skilled for looking in western Mongolia, used to trace foxes and different small sport throughout the steppes. Past looking, they’re symbols of power and freedom, which is why they characteristic so prominently in native festivals and, sure, at vacationer stops. What an impressive animal!
Talking of animals, if there’s one which rivals the eagle in significance to Mongolian tradition, it must be the camel.
I’ve rode on camels twice earlier than on my travels — within the Sahara Desert in Morocco and the Thar Desert in India — however the ones in Mongolia are completely different. They’re Bactrian camels, which I view as correct camels, as a result of they’ve two humps as an alternative of 1! They’re stockier than single-hump camels and higher fitted to the icy steppe fairly than limitless sand.
By no means worry: they nonetheless present simply as uncomfortable a trip as every other camel anyplace else on this planet, with all of the wobbling, swaying, and jostling you may dream of.
After attempting our palms in any respect the native actions, it was time to move additional into the steppe. Our subsequent cease was a go to to a household’s ger, and I couldn’t wait to take a peek inside these iconic houses.
Gers have been utilized by Mongolian nomads for hundreds of years.
It’s made from a collapsible wood body that’s lined in a thick felt, which helps hold out the chilly. To my amazement, the whole factor might be packed up and carried on camels or horses every time households resolve to maneuver on, so it’s super-practical for a nomadic existence.
Inside, there’s a central range for heat and cooking, and each piece of furnishings has a goal. Beds and low benches line the perimeters, performing as seating throughout the day and sleeping spots at night time. Cabinets retailer garments, blankets, and different necessities. In a single nook, there’s usually a small altar for choices and prayers.
The mum of the household motioned for us to come back inside, and we gathered in a single cosy space, watching as she ready a snack for us.
Now.
The white, tubular objects you’ll be able to see on the tray in my photograph are known as aaruul, they usually’re a staple of Mongolian nomadic life.
To make it, you ferment the milk you’ve collected out of your camels then boil it to separate the curds and whey. The curds are then formed into small tubes and positioned on high of the ger to dry over a number of days. You possibly can see the mum placing trays of them on her ger’s roof in my photograph of the outside.
The result’s a tough, tangy snack that may final for months, is excessive in protein and calcium, and helps preserve sturdy tooth. As any individual who doesn’t normally devour dairy, I took a hesitant chunk of 1 and determined I didn’t want a second.
We had been handed a heat cup of airag subsequent: fermented horse milk that’s notorious to travellers in Mongolia. It’s alcoholic, bitter, and fizzy, and… difficult to take pleasure in. I learn an alarming quantity of tales from fellow travellers who vomited after ingesting it!
Its undoubtedly an acquired style, however when in Mongolia…
Happily, we had been having greater than aaruul and airag for lunch. After bidding the household farewell, we set off for an area roadside restaurant, constructed inside a big ger. As quickly as we stepped inside, the odor of scorching meat wafted by way of the air, and I puzzled what was in retailer for us.
They are saying that no one travels to Mongolia for the meals, and I can inform you that the delicacies is exceptionally bleak, starting from important organ soup to grilled marmot that comes with a minor danger of dying of bubonic plague.
We let our guides order for us, and shortly sufficient, our desk was piled with a dozen native specialities.
There have been noodle dishes, wealthy stews, rice, and grilled meat. After which there was khuushuur. Deep fried dough wrapped round juicy, spiced mutton, it was simply the most effective factor I ate within the nation. Though as you will have gathered, that isn’t saying a lot.
Subsequent up: Turtle Rock! We had been now inside Gorkhi-Terelj Nationwide Park, well-known for its dramatic rock formations, dense forests, and wide-open steppe. The park stretches for miles, however Turtle Rock is without doubt one of the best spots to achieve.
To my shock, it actually did appear like a turtle.
Our guides led us across the again of the shell and urged us to observe them up. The hike is brief however difficult, with slim chasms that I may barely match by way of, uneven floor, and enormous boulders blocking your method. At one level, I bought caught once I wanted to scale a rock as tall as my waist, requiring one individual to push me up whereas another person tugged on my arms.
As soon as close to the highest, the view was well worth the battle. Forest, mountains, and clusters of ger camps stretched out in each course.
This wasn’t what I anticipated Mongolia to appear like in any respect. With the timber, mountains, and clear air, you may have instructed me I used to be in Switzerland and I wouldn’t have been stunned.
We took turns climbing out on to the rocks and posing for images, dragging out the expertise for so long as doable, partly to delay the treacherous climb again down, and partly as a result of we knew our subsequent cease could be the ultimate one of many day.
The final attraction on our itinerary was Aryabel Temple: a Buddhist meditation centre and temple that’s been carved into the facet of the mountain. Again within the 1800s, it was used as a meditation retreat, the place monks would climb to caves excessive within the cliffs and meditate for months or years.
To get there, you’ll must climb 108 stone steps,
Aryabal Temple is a Buddhist meditation spot that’s been carved into the facet of a mountain; to get there, you want to climb 108 stone steps, however the view makes it greater than price it.
The temple is comparatively trendy, constructed as a spot for meditation and reflection inside the fantastic thing about Gorkhi-Terelj Nationwide Park. Inside, its partitions are painted in shiny reds, yellows, blues, and greens, with conventional Buddhist symbols just like the wheel of Dharma and lotus flowers to take images of.
It’s an lively web site, so that you usually see monks meditating and locals coming to hope, so it’s vital to be respectful whenever you go to. And don’t overlook to show round and take some images of the mountain vistas from the highest, too! A few of my favorite views of the day journey had been from this temple.
And with that, it was time to show round and spend two hours driving again to Ulaanbaatar, adopted by two hours sitting in its visitors.
I extremely, extremely suggest jumping on this day trip whilst you’re within the metropolis. Our guides had been a lot enjoyable, stuffed with information in regards to the nation, and felt like household by the tip of the day. We crammed in tons of points of interest with out feeling rushed, and laughed the entire method round.
The place I Stayed in Ulaanbaatar
Ulaanbaatar is much from an costly metropolis, so lodging bargains are simple to seek out.
If you happen to’re travelling to town as a part of a pair, I’d wholeheartedly suggest staying at Danista Nomads. The employees had been so useful and pleasant, and actually made me really feel at dwelling whereas I staying there. A free breakfast is included, which is served inside a ger that has been arrange inside the eating room; one thing I discovered so pleasant!
The web labored effectively and I used to be in a position to video chat with Dave and watch Youtube with out difficulty. And it was in a good location, too; round an half-hour stroll to Sukhbaatar Sq.. The rooms had been cleaned every single day.
Right here’s the factor: I had the misfortune of being positioned in a horrible room at Danista Nomads. There’s one room within the property the place, resulting from some sort of plumbing difficulty, each time the toilet was utilized by a visitor, the odor instantly wafted into my room the place it will linger for the subsequent half an hour.
Based mostly on different opinions of the resort there may be one room — room 18 — within the property that suffers from this difficulty, and after I introduced this up with the employees after leaving, they instructed me they fastened the issue.
Sooo, in case you are travelling as a pair, that is the place to remain. If you happen to’re travelling solo, perhaps request that you simply’re not positioned in room 18, simply in case.
And That Was Ulaanbaatar!
After I first touched down in Ulaanbaatar, it felt overwhelming.
It is a metropolis that’s noisy, polluted, and complicated, and strolling round it could actually really feel sketchy the overwhelming majority of the time. The streets aren’t arrange for exploring, and I undoubtedly had moments of feeling misplaced and pissed off amongst the concrete blocks and visitors.
However the extra time I spent there, the extra it began to develop on me. The town has a bizarre sort of power, however you get used to it the longer you’re there, and you actually do begin to heat to it. Wandering by way of markets, temples, and museums, assembly pleasant locals, and seeing the combination of Soviet structure and trendy skyscrapers made me admire simply how complicated this metropolis is.
Ulaanbaatar is much from excellent, and it’s undoubtedly not a elegant vacationer city, however that’s sort of a part of its allure.
If you happen to’re heading to Mongolia, give your self a few days within the capital to see a facet of the nation away from the steppe. Go to all of the museums, wander by way of the colorful temples, and see if it begins to develop on you.
(My apologies, if it doesn’t.)
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